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Managing Your Image Files – Part 4

Editing Libraries and Images

When we talk about editing in photography it can mean two different processes. First, we edit our downloaded images to weed out the bad or duplicate shots. Second we can edit the pictures themselves by making changes – from adjusting color to actually moving image elements around. To continue with the flow of our discussion from capture to back-up we will start with editing our shoot.

Digital image capture has made it easy for us to overshoot everything we point our lenses at. Where we used to take 12 images of a birthday party when we shot film we now take 100 with a digital camera. And why not, it’s all free, isn’t it? This assumption is the second part of the digital myth. The first was that digital was supposed to be easy and automatic; the second part is that every image captured is free of cost.

Actually there is no real monetary expense to clicking the shutter of a digital camera. Once the camera and memory card are paid for about the only continuing cost of operation is the penny or two in electricity required to recharge the camera’s battery. The expense comes when we want to get our image out of our cameras, and here we run into cost measured in both money and time.

The more images we capture the more storage space will be required on our computer’s hard drive. Adding on a USB hard drive increases the amount of storage space but it also costs more than a few bucks for each drive. While we can see our drives filling up and we can budget for the expense of buying add-on hard drives what we can’t accurately assess is the cost of our time investment.

When we made the shift from film to digital our expenses shifted from rolls of film to investment of personal time. The good news is that the time investment can be controlled and kept to a minimum. We save time by learning how to edit our images properly.

As mentioned above, where we may have taken twelve pictures at the birthday party on film we now take 100 with a digital camera. Twelve images may be too few but I can guarantee you that 100 pictures are too many. We need to pick the best and most important shots and delete the rest. Be a little ruthless. Try to look at the event pictures with an eye that asks which images will still mean something two years from now.

Taking just a moment or two to eliminate duplicate, poor quality or meaningless images now will save time and storage space in the future. If you have a group shot from the child’s birthday party you will not likely miss individual shots of each kid two years from now. Likewise shots of the birthday boy opening each present can be cut to just one or two in the editing process.

How is editing going to save us time and money? We save money by limiting the amount of storage space required to house our image library. We save time when we don’t have to slog through hundreds of meaningless images in order to find the one we need. Remember, we don’t take pictures to remind us of what happened yesterday. We take pictures to remind us about yesterday’s event three years from now. Taking family or event pictures is about long term memory, not about immediate gratification.

Are you uncomfortable permanently deleting your images? I know of one photographer who just can’t delete images so she burns all of her “rejects” onto a CD. Then if she doesn’t access the CD in 18 months she throws it away.

Editing the “take” from a photo event helps keep our libraries compact and relevant. Sometimes in the process we find an image that we think we can rescue from deletion by fixing it. This is the other kind of editing where we make changes to the image either globally such as with a brightness adjustment or at the pixel level by altering elements within the image.

This kind of editing is one of the great features of digital photography. Just about anyone can edit their pictures. From simple adjustments like a crop or correcting a color cast to complicated and detailed changes like removing unwanted elements within the image, the only limit is the photographer’s skill and the available software.

While we aren’t going to discuss how to edit images in this series we do have some tips to make editing work within your image management workflow. We will begin with the #1 cardinal rule of image editing – Never edit the original image file. The first thing to do after opening the desired image file in the editor is to do a “Save-As” and create a duplicate file under a different name, even if that name is as simple as adding the words “Copyof” to the front of the original file name.

Why rename the file? The most common mistake in image editing is to edit the original file, save the results (which overwrites the original), only to realize that there is a mistake in the editing. Once this happens there is no original file to turn to for recovery. It’s just good practice to never edit the original image file.

Where this image file copy is saved is up to the photographer. Some photographers will want to save the file to a collection folder on their computer desktop perhaps named “Edits in Progress” while others will save the new file to the same folder as the original. The important thing is to use the same naming convention all the time.

Often photographers will have several images from an event that they are in the process of editing. Having them named and filed consistently streamlines the editing process. Once the file editing is complete I suggest that the new file should be stored back in the same folder as the original.

Each photographer should develop a process that makes sense to them. In my case I name all edits in process by adding “Copyof” to the front of the original’s file name. Once the edits are complete the file is saved by removing the “Copyof” prefix and adding the word “Edit” to the end of the original file name and the file is stored in the original folder. This way when I look into the image folder I see all of the original files paired with their edited versions right beside them.

In conclusion: Editing describes two different processes in digital photography. The first process is where the photographer deletes duplicate, poor quality or meaningless images from an event or session. Editing the image library contents keeps the library compact and easily navigated. The second editing process is where we make alterations to the actual image. This kind of edit can be a simple adjustment to color or a detailed manipulation of elements within the image. The photographer should always rename an image file before beginning to edit and by using a consistent naming system the files easier to find.

The next week’s installment will be the last in this series. Image sharing and back-up will be the final topics.

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Selecting A Tripod

If there is one pieces of equipment photographers most often call “optional” it’s a tripod. Yet I believe that there is no camera accessory more important to own. A camera mounted on a tripod has several advantages that can’t be matched by technology or technique.

Tripods can do more for image quality than any other accessory. Tripods keep cameras rock steady during the moment of exposure. Have you ever marveled at a magazine picture so detailed it seems that you could walk right into it? Have you seen a portrait so crisp that you can count the hairs of the subject’s eyelashes? The difference between shooting hand held and on a tripod is in the fine details.

All of the image stabilization technology and camera handling technique in the world cannot hold a camera as completely still as a tripod. And having the camera locked down and unmoving is what allows the photographer to capture fine detail in the final image.

Photographers need tripods and many don’t have a clear idea of how to begin selecting one. There are two characteristics that are a good place to start when selecting the right tripod: the ability to support the weight of the camera and the tripod head style.

When we are concerned about supporting the weight of a camera we are looking at two distinct parts of the tripod. The legs must be able to support the camera’s weight without bowing or shaking and the tripod’s head has to have locks that can securely hold the camera in any desired position.

The selected tripod should be able to hold the photographer’s camera and heaviest lens rigidly locked at any point along the head’s range of movement. A tripod head that allows a camera and lens to drift will eventually find a tip-over point and there goes the whole rig falling to the ground.

The area of interest that the photographer works in will have a significant impact on the type of tripod and head that should be selected. While most inexpensive tripods come with permanently attached pan heads moderate to top-end models allow the photographer to choose the type of head to complete the outfit.

Pan heads tend to have a single long handle that protrudes from the back of the tripod head. By twisting the handle to loosen the camera platform the camera can be aimed toward the sky or toward the ground. A pan head is preferred by those who shoot movies or video because the long handle allows for easy, smooth control while panning from side to side.

However a pan head often doesn’t manage landscape to portrait camera tilts very well, they lack a strong enough lock to hold the camera in a mid position between horizontal and vertical. Pan heads also have difficulty in pointing the camera straight up, the long handle prevents this.

Photographers who don’t need to follow action often prefer ball heads. A ball head can have one or more locks that allow the ball and socket of the head to move freely in roughly hemispherical arcs. Ball heads provide a means to have almost unlimited control over the position of the camera. One benefit of the large range of motion is when positioning the camera exactly level on uneven ground. Ball heads in general will support more camera and lens weight without drifting.

The Three-way Pan Head is much like the pan head mentioned above. However with a three-way there are three mid-length control handles or levers. A three-way head tends to sit higher above the tripod body to permit greater movement of the camera platform. A three-way head offers the capabilities of the pan head with more rigid locks and finer control of the tilt feature. Three-way pan heads have been studio favorites for years.

Three–way and ball type tripod heads are most commonly found on moderate to high-end tripods. Pan heads as mentioned earlier are often found on lower cost tripods but there are high-end options that are favored by videographers. I would like to stress that there is no wrong tripod head, the choice of one style over another is solely based on how the photographer shoots.

A third consideration is operating height. For extended use, such as covering a sporting event, a tripod that is too short can be a literal pain in the back. However photographers that want to pack into the woods will appreciate the most compact tripod they can find. In general we should judge the operating height of a tripod without extending the center column. The more the center column is extended the less stable the tripod becomes.

One of the last major factors is the material that the tripod is made from. Outside of exotics, aluminum is the single most common material in tripod construction, second is plastic. The ratio of aluminum to plastic affects the weight, price and stability of the tripod.

Another group of materials used in tripods are the exotics. Carbon fiber and even basalt have been engineered for use in tripod leg construction. These materials offer high rigidity and strength while creating a lower weight tripod. Exotic tripods will still rely on aluminum, plastic and other materials to create the entire package but they can offer up to a 30% weight savings compared to an aluminum tripod of equal capability.

Selecting a tripod and head is all about feature trade-offs, expense and shooting style. Be careful with the feature compromises though, a low priced, compact and light weight tripod that isn’t stable when your camera and lens are mounted is always too expensive.

In conclusion: Tripods are a necessary accessory for any photographer. It is important to select one that can support the weight of your camera and heaviest lens without creeping. Tripod heads come in several configurations, moderate to more expensive tripods will allow the photographer to mix and match legs and heads to select their own combination. The materials used in tripod construction have a direct bearing on three key factors: cost, weight and stability. Don’t make a purchase decision without considering all three factors.