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Photo Tip Round-Up – Ten Plus One

If there is one thing photographers love to do it’s exchange tips – almost as much as they love to shoot pictures! What follows is a list of tips that Porter’s has recently compiled. Read on through the list and take what you can from the suggestions. Putting even one tip into practice can immediately improve your pictures!

#1 – Know Your Camera! Knowing your particular camera can help you learn its limitations. Understanding those limitations will help you creatively overcome them. At the very least, know where your instruction book is.

#2 – Hold Your Camera Correctly. The number one complaint in photography is fuzzy pictures. Use two hands to hold the camera and keep your elbows tucked into your body.

#3 – Use Your Flash: Indoors or out using an accessory flash improves people pictures. Flash adds fill light to people’s eyes, it eliminates harsh shadows, and with most cameras it eases high contrast scenes.

#4 – Format your Memory Cards. When it comes to caring for media cards, there are a few things you need to know to make sure your images are well protected and the card remains in working order. For example, make sure to reformat your card on a regular basis. Reformatting keeps the file structure clean and in good working order, which means you’ll get fewer error messages down the road. The longer a card goes without being formatted, the greater possibility there is for corruption. (ed 4/26) Note: Only format cards after all images have been downloaded! Formatting will erase everything on the card. (Read more about memory card use and care on THIS POST)

#5 – Eyes OPEN! If you’ve ever had a subject who blinks every time the flash goes off try this: Have the subject close their eyes and then open them on the count of three. Tripping the shutter at the same count will all but assure you of getting an eyes-open shot.

#6 – Want Steadier Shots? Begin by holding the camera firmly and with both hands. Keep your elbows into the body. Take a deep breath and slowly exhale, at the end of the exhale your ribcage will be rigid and steady. Press the shutter release at that moment.

#7 – Sink To Their Level. The next time your are taking pictures of seated people or kids make sure to get the camera down to their eye level. This will make the subject’s face look properly proportioned in the final image.

#8 – Whenever Possible, Use A Tripod! You knew I was going to get this one onto the list, right? Cameras on tripods take sharper images rendering more fine detail than any hand-held camera even with an image stabilized lens.

#9 – Shoot Now, Look Later: If you’re photographing a particular scene or event, keep shooting until you’ve reached a point of closure. Too often we shoot a picture and immediately look at the LCD screen to see if we captured the shot. Keep going. You might miss that frame-worthy photo because your eyes are focused on what has already happened instead of what is happening right now.

#10 – Don’t Zoom Too Much. Zoom lenses are handy for reaching out to subjects at a distance. However if it is possible to physically move in closer rather than use the zoom we should. A zoom lens can make an image look flat and without depth – the background can seem to be right on top of the subject. If there is one tip that can have the greatest impact on your images, this is it! Use your feet more often than the zoom lens and you will like your pictures more.

The globe in both images is about the same size. There is a greater feeling of depth with the picture on the left. The image on the right shows background and subject compression due to the zoom lens.

Plus One – Learn One New Thing A Month. You will be taking pictures for a very long time, you don’t need to learn everything right this moment. Take on one new technique and work with it until you know it inside and out. Repetition and practice are the best ways to increase skill.

DSLR Next Step: Tools for White Balance

Every Photographer that progresses from auto-everything image capture toward taking creative control of the photo process bumps into White Balance (WB) control. Some decision has to be made regarding WB correction – do we trust our camera’s built-in controls or do we have greater faith in our computer software? Often cameras remain firmly set for Auto White Balance or AWB simply because the process seems so complicated.

Dealing with White Balance isn’t a new twist caused by photography going digital. Photographers have always had to work in a world where each kind of light has its own color. Sometimes the color cast of the available light is subtle, other times terribly intense. In all situations the color of the light directly affects the color and quality of our images.

This article isn’t intended to dig deeply into White Balance and color theory, there are many books dedicated to the subject. What we will do is take a look at several White Balance tools and by describing each in use offer a view into the White Balance process.

When it comes to correcting White Balance (referred to as WB going forward) for our images, the process breaks down into two camps: correct WB in-camera before shooting or correct it after capture with computer software. Both choices have tools that help create an accurate WB setting for the image.

For many photographers choosing to correct WB in-camera is not only effective but more affordable. The first step is to understand how to use the camera’s Custom White Balance setting. Every DSLR that I’ve handled has a Custom WB setting option; it’s just a matter of reading the camera manual and learning how access the option and use it.

It really is a fairly easy process once you’ve used Custom WB once or twice; the photographer creates a WB reference image and then chooses to apply it to all subsequent images captured. It is in creating the WB reference image that our tools come into play.

The WB reference image can simply be a picture of a white piece of paper captured under the current lighting conditions. The step up from a white piece of paper is a pop-up WB target that is durable and portable. With either the white paper or the pop-up target the photographer places it in the scene, fills the viewfinder frame with the white surface, captures the image and selects it as the WB reference.

Photographers have used this simple process for years and it is quite effective when only one light source is available. However when there are two or more different light sources in the scene a flat white target isn’t the best solution. For these situations a special lens filter is used which mixes and blends all of the available light into a single reference image.

The ExpoDisc White Balance Filter has a white filter material sandwiched between prismatic surfaces. This design mixes together all of the available light and allows the camera to capture a single reference image. By holding the ExpoDisc in front of the lens and taking one picture the photographer has created a highly accurate reference image.

Other options of this idea can be found with the Brno White Balance Lens Cap, the Promaster White Balance Lens Cap and in the ProDiskII Filter and Color Card. Using in-camera WB correction is useful when shooting either in RAW or JPG.

When we look at post-capture WB correction we find a different solution for the same problem. Post-capture correction assumes that the photographer has image editing software that has more than just basic controls.

For post-capture WB correction to be most effective a reference target is placed in the scene before image capture. Once a reference image has been taken the target can be removed from the scene until there is a change in light. After capture, using the color, exposure and hue selectors found in the image editing software, the reference image is adjusted for good WB. Once the WB setting is created the setting is copied to all of the other images taken under the same light.

Targets used in the scene for post-capture WB correction can be as simple as the pop-up WB target mentioned earlier; however it can be much more useful if the target has more to offer than just a white or gray face.

The Spyder Cube WB reference target is a dimensional device placed into a scene as a reference. In post-capture editing software is used to measure the Spyder Cube in the reference image in order to balance the lighting color and to change or confirm accurate exposure.

Another option is to use a color card as the reference target. The ProDisk II mentioned above offers an eight-color reference card that can be included in the reference scene. In post-capture editing the colors are sampled with the software tools and WB and exposure setting adjusted.

When using the Spyder Cube or the ProDiskII once the reference image is corrected the settings are copied onto all of the other images taken under the same light. The post-capture method of WB correction can work with RAW or JPG files. However the ease and effectiveness of this method is directly related to the capabilities of the editing software used.

To many photographers correcting White Balance seems too technical. Yet an image with corrected WB and exposure will look more natural and vibrant. It is possible to set the camera for Auto White Balance correction but this only provides an average outcome, as often off color as correct.

Taking control of WB is definitely an intermediate skill and it does take a little fussing with either accessories or software. However as skill improves and the process becomes second nature the payoff is in better pictures that stand out from the crowd.